Monstera obliqua 'Putumayo Form'
Monstera obliqua Miq. · Putumayo Form Monstera
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About Monstera obliqua 'Putumayo Form'
The Monstera obliqua 'Putumayo Form' originates from the rainforests of the western Amazon basin. This delicate epiphyte is distinguished by narrow, thin, asymmetric foliage with balanced, elongated oval fenestrations. As an inhabitant of the dim understory, it climbs by scaling mossy surfaces. Its specific geographical origin in the Putumayo region sets it apart from other obliqua locality forms such as the Peruvian or Zamora-Chinchipe forms.
Native range
Putumayo region (Colombia-Peru borderlands)
Classification
- Genus
- Monstera
- Family
- Araceae
- Type
- Cultivar
- Growth habit
- Delicate epiphyte, light climber
- Form of
- Monstera obliqua
Morphology
- Leaf shape
- Elongated, asymmetric
- Leaf length
- Small to medium, narrow
- Leaf width
- Narrow
- Petiole colour
- Green
- Venation
- PinnateVeins or lobes arranged like a feather, branching out symmetrically on both sides of a single main central vein. with heavy fenestration
- Texture
- Thin and delicate
- Variegation
- None
- Growth habit
- Climbing epiphyteA plant that grows on another plant (like a tree) for physical support, absorbing water and nutrients from the air and rain.
Recent UK sales
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For sale in the UK
Before you buy
- Genuine Monstera obliqua leaves are extremely fenestrated (70-90% hole coverage) and paper-thin/near-translucent. Thicker, less extreme fenestration is almost always Monstera adansonii
- Look for leafless exploratory stolons on the plant or cutting. True obliqua produces these before leaves; adansonii does not
- Ask the seller for the specific locality/collection origin. Reputable true-obliqua sellers can usually name it; generic 'obliqua' listings with no origin are a red flag
- Given the price involved, request close-up photos of an actual leaf held up to light before buying, not just a listing photo
Monstera obliqua 'Putumayo Form' care
- Substrate
- Very open, chunky epiphytic mix: sphagnum moss, fine orchid bark and perlite. True obliqua roots are fine and easily suffocated or rotted in dense substrate.
- Watering
- Keep consistently and lightly moist; the paper-thin leaves have almost no water storage capacity and desiccate quickly, but waterlogged roots rot just as fast.
- Humidity
- 75-95% is non-negotiable. This species is essentially impossible to grow well outside a closed, humidity-controlled enclosure or greenhouse in a UK home.
- Feeding
- Very dilute liquid fertiliser (quarter strength or less) no more than once a month, since this is an extremely slow-growing plant with minimal nutrient demand.
- Repotting
- Rarely: disturb the root system as little as possible; repot only when the container is genuinely outgrown.
Common problems
Leaf desiccation / crisping
Cause: Humidity below the 75%+ this species requires
Fix: Move into a sealed cabinet or greenhouse. Open-room humidifiers are rarely sufficient for true obliqua
Stem/node rot
Cause: Overwatering combined with dense substrate or poor airflow
Fix: Repot into a very open mix, improve airflow, and reduce watering frequency while keeping ambient humidity high
Mislabelled purchase
Cause: The overwhelming majority of plants sold as 'Monstera obliqua' are actually Monstera adansonii
Fix: Verify fenestration ratio (70-90% hole coverage), leaf translucency, and presence of leafless exploratory stolons before paying true-obliqua prices
Gear for this plant
- Coir Moss Pole, 120cm (4-Pack)Coco coir totem for climbing aroids to root into as they grow upward.
- Natural Rooting Powder, 3 x 75gRooting hormone powder for stem and leaf cuttings.
- Precision Bonsai Pruning Scissors, 200mmFine-bladed snips for clean node cuts when taking a cutting.
- Humidity Dome, Heavy-Duty Germination KitVented propagation dome for holding humidity around fresh cuttings.
How to propagate Monstera obliqua 'Putumayo Form'
- Methods
- Node cutting. Step-by-step guide
- Difficulty
- Expert Only. Demands precise humidity, temperature, and light control, often a greenhouse or grow tent. Prone to decline outside those conditions.
- Time to establish
- 6-12+ months
- True from cuttings
- Yes. Cuttings keep the cultivar's character.
- Notes
- Notoriously difficult and slow to propagate; single-node cuttings are the norm, and rot rather than rooting is the most common outcome without near-sterile, high-humidity propagation conditions (sphagnum in a sealed box or in-vitro tissue culture).